I’ve been in Paris since Tuesday. It’s been 14 years since my last, visit. That trip was my first time in Europe and my first solo trip. How things have changed! With a lot of solo travel now under my belt and over 10 months living in France, I’m having a much different experience. I find myself feeling halfway between tourist and resident. I don’t belong, but I don’t not. It’s a curious feeling. It was also my birthday this week – I can’t think of a better gift than to hang out in the City of Light!
I have another week here but want to share what I’ve been up to in the past 4 days.
I’m convinced that all good trips include a prioritised list of things to see and do, but it’s important to keep the list short to leave room to just wander and explore. This trip, my list includes a return to the World Arab Institute and jazz club Caveau de la Huchette, both of which were highlights of my last time here. And there are some museums and exhibits that round out the list.
Institut du Monde Arabe
The World Arab Institute was built in the 1980s and houses a museum, library, auditorium, restaurant, offices and meeting rooms. The exhibits are interesting and informative, but what drew me back were the windows. The entire south side of the building is covered in hundreds of them, large and small. Each window is designed like a camera aperture and opens and closes independently to control the light in the building. The first photo gives a sense of the scope of the building, the next two show a close-up of the outside and inside of one of the panes.
From Wikipedia: Visible behind the glass wall, a metallic screen unfolds with moving geometric motifs. The motifs are actually 240 photo-sensitive motor-controlled apertures, or shutters, which act as a sophisticated brise soleil that automatically opens and closes to control the amount of light and heat entering the building from the sun.
Caveau de la Huchette
In 2011, I searched the internet for ‘best jazz club Paris’ and was served up Caveau de la Huchette. This was long before it made an appearance in, and gained popularity from, the movie, La La Land. It was a memorable experience and I had to go back.
When you enter off the street, the room looks like any other bar you might see in France. Descending into the lower level takes you into a charming, cavernous space cut into stone walls with a band set up on the stage in front of a dance floor. The room was hot, the beer was cold, the music was good, but it was the dancing that I loved.
The older crowd I remember from my last visit was replaced by much younger patrons. They were swing dancing – women and men, men and men, women and women. People I saw together in line when we were waiting to get in hit the dance floor together. And strangers – hand proffered, accepted and then more twirling. There was a lot of joy in that room.
Caveau de la Huchette has become very popular since La La Land came out and I know that there are now more authentic places for jazz in Paris, but I loved my evening there.
Céleste Boursier- Mougenot Exhibit
After seeing a video of the Céleste Boursier- Mougenot exhibit, it shot to the top of my list. I spent an hour sitting in the rotunda, letting the sound wash over me. I’ve included a short sound clip below, along with some photos. It’s on until the 21st of September. If you’re in Paris before then, I highly recommend it.
Musée D’Orsay
On the advice of a friend, I bought an annual pass to Musée D’Orsay. With the pass, I was admitted into the museum 30 minutes before the rest of the public. I was practically alone for half an hour! I took one photo of the famous clock, then put my camera away and tried to absorb what I was seeing. Renoir, Monet, Manet, Degas, Van Gogh, and more. My senses were overwhelmed – and that was just the 5th floor.
An hour later, the rooms were filled with people jockeying for the best position to take photos of the masterpieces. My solitude was over and I started to feel irritated by the lack of reverence, so I left.
I plan to go back a few more times this week. The pass also gets me into the Musée de l’Orangerie which houses Monet’s Water Lillies. That’s on the list for this week, too.
Green spaces
I’m in awe of the green spaces in Paris. Tree-lined streets and walkways, parks everywhere – it feels so healthy. It means cleaner air, for sure, but also provides shaded places where people can sit and relax. It’s so good for the soul. For this reason alone, I would love to live here.
Song of the week
How can I not choose a live version of Edith Piaf singing La Vie En Rose in 1954 for the song of the week?
I’ve packed a lot into the last few days and need to start pacing myself. I still have one more week here and hope to visit a few sites – Père Lachaise Cemetery, Notre Dame Cathedral and the David Hockney exhibit to name a few. But I also want to spend more time sitting in parks with a book and a baguette.
À bientôt .
Bonjour, Sue
Thank you. for sharing your visit to Paris. I left France yesterday after two weeks; one in Normandy where Carver was honored for his faithful service in 1944 and another few days in Epernay-a perfect place to recharge my batteries. I loved your wisdom of leaving spaces to engage the wonder and awe of Paris. One of those for me was walking in Luxembourg Gardens near my hotel on a couple of times. La La Land was one of my favorite films, but I didn’t know the Jazz Club, will put on my list for next time. I didn’t know the World Arab Institute, either. The Annual Pass at Musée d’Orsay is a great idea. I’m returning next October taking a group to Normandy following Carver’s WWII Journey. At the top of my list-only 2 days in Paris-was Mass at Notre Dame. The Restoration is breath-taking. I’m looking forward to next week. Happy Birthday, Marianne
Sue, the Hockney show is so worth it. And the park next to it is fun (free w LVF tkts).
Hi Sue,
The Hockney exhibit is fantastic. Go through the Asian botanical as you get a view of the frank Guery Museum that’s not visible from the street. You can enter the museum from the gardens , owned by Louis Vuitton foundation. Don’t miss the top floor opera exhibit by Hockney.
Also, highly recommend the petit palais Worth exhibit. The main building is free and full of master paintings too.
Enjoy !
Wow! What a couple of weeks. Love the sound tracks you included. I agree, 100 per cent, with you about the green spaces in Paris. There are places just to walk and enjoy and the sculptured hedges and bushes are noteworthy. Hope your week is eventful and non-eventful.
I was so far behind in your posts, and only finally read this. Sorry!!! I absolutely love the Céleste Boursier- Mougenot exhibit!!! What a wonderful piece of art. I love the thought of just finding a park in Paris and sitting with a book and baguette. I hope you were able to do a lot of that during your time there 🙂 Also, did you find Les Dindons at Musée D’Orsay????
I did see Les Dindons 😄